I N F O This stew is cooked for several hours. Since Thai dishes were traditionally cooked over an open charcoal fire – the heat of which could only be regulated by kindling or removing the embers – prolonged cooking was often almost inevitable, and the fish became tough. The Thai appreciate this chewy texture, but it may not be entirely to Western taste. To prepare the recipe faithfully and still keep the fish juicy, you could cook it in the oven at a very low heat – 90 degrees or less, green papayas also contain enzymes that keep the fish tender.
The best fish for this recipe are those with a slightly oily or earthy flavor. In Thai cooking, when fish – or other foods – are very flavorful, they incorporate strong aromatics and spices to counter the strong ingredients. In this recipe, galangal root, lemongrass, ginger, shallots and chilies take away – or at least cover – the fish’s earthy goodness. The spices clarify and accentuate the inherent flavor: tamarind takes away the fish’s earthiness and oiliness, the salt in fish and soy sauce tightens the palate, and the sugar adds substance.
Besides mackerel, the best fish for this dish are swordfish, pelamids, mahi-mahi, tuna (white or possibly common), a small whole tommy ruff (Australian herring), river or possibly trout perch od
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